Flying Fortress
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The Fortress of Louisbourg, Nova Scotia: A Step Back in Time
The Fortress Of Louisbourg. The tour book said to spend an entire day there. From Baddeck the Fortress is only twenty miles across the Island as the crow flies. The island, however is bisected, quartered and diced by Bras d’Or Sea, an inland salt water sea with many bays extending from it. An hour later you arrive at the visitor’s center for the Fortress. From there you board a shuttle bus for the two plus kilometer ride to the fortress itself, which sits on a spit of land jutting into the Atlantic Ocean. Be warned to bring somthing warm with you, because the temperature at the Fortress is about ten to fifteen degrees cooler than at the visitor center.
You are stopped at the gates by armed guards in 18th Century uniforms demanding that you provide some rum for them while visiting the fortress. They also explained the rules and regulations about visiting the fortress. The fortress was founded in 1713 by the French to provide protection for the cod fishermen and trappers in the area. By 1744 the civilian population grew to over 2,500 permanent settlers and a garrison numbering about 700. At this time it rivaled both Boston and Philadelphia in size. Commerce between these cities was quite expansive; Louisbourg exported salted cod, while importing goods for living day to day. The government even tried to entice some of the Acadians to move there to farm the land around the area. A few did with great hardship. The French knew how to build a magnificent fortress, but chose a miserable place to build it. We were there on perhaps one of the best days of the year. Even with the sun shining, there was a stiff breeze. Generally the area is ten to fifteen degrees cooler than inland and is frequently shrouded in fog or is very windy. During the winter it is pure hell.
What makes the place so remarkable is that there was nothing there before the French built the fortress in 1713 and after the English destroyed it in 1760. The only thing which remained were the foundations for the buildings and more than 8,000 pages of documents kept by the French. These contained blueprints, detailed inventory of the houses and gardens of the deceased after probate. The records were so meticulous that when the government of Canada decided to reconstruct one fifth of the original Louisbourg, they were able to do it with impeccable accuracy. The interior of the buildings, which they could not reproduce, they made into exhibition spaces. There are three restaurants: one for the wealthy, one for the commoners, and a pub for the sailors. The soldiers at the fort could not afford eating out.
Reenacters give demonstrations of musket shooting and cannon firing. Throughout the various buildings people in period costumes explain the contents of the building and the lives of the people who lived in them. There were captains of the military, merchants, engineers, ship captains, accountants, and the Sisters of Notre Dame’s school for girls. The Bastian, the barracks, is the second largest building built by the French in North America (the largest is in Artillery Park in Quebec). There the governor lived in splendor and the soldiers were garrisoned in squaller. The chapel there was used as the church for the community with four Masses said on Sundays.
Two special treats we had, while we were there, was the bread, which could be bought at the bakery. Baked daily, you had the choice of soldier’s bread made of rye and wheat, the wealthy person’s white bread, or a combination of both. We chose the soldier’s bread: $2.75 for more than two pounds worth. We nibbled on that the entire day. One of the reenactors was extremely remarkable. He has portrayed a soldier for over twenty-five years. He looks and has the mannerisms of Mel Gibson. Not only is he very knowledgeable, but loves his work and has a great time talking with the people. If you "tweak" him the right way, he might have a present for you. He is worth the trip all by himself.
About the Author
John Pelley is a Geriatric Gypsy. He is retired from the rat race of working. He is a full-time RVer, who ran away from home. He began our travels on the East Coast and, like the migrating birds, seek the warmth of the seasons He has discovered volunteering with the National Park System. He has a CD he has recorded of Native American flute music., A Day with Kokopelli. For pictures, links, and more information visit http://www.jmpelley.org.
B-17G Flying Fortress engine start-up and taxi